1952–1956
CHRISTIAN DIOR / BY / MITCHEL MAER
The full MITCHEL MAER co-signature distinguishes this English production from Kramer and the German marks.
stamped / cast-in plaque · silver-tone · London, England
Designer marks
Christian Dior jewelry marks
The name “MADE IN GERMANY / CHRISTIAN DIOR / © / 1964” appears among Christian Dior jewelry marks from Pforzheim, Germany.
- Active years
- From 1946
- Country
- France
- City / region
- Paris
- Products
- costume necklaces, brooches, earrings, bracelets, rings, later fine jewelry
- Marks
- 5
House opened in December 1946; first couture collection February 1947. Licensed costume jewelry from 1948. Fine-jewelry department established 1998.
What to look for
- Read the entire co-signature. BY MITCHEL MAER, BY KRAMER and a German place mark identify different production relationships. Look on the clasp, reverse and attached signature plaque.
- Read the whole year when it is split around the name: 19 and 64 make 1964. A dated specimen establishes that example’s date; an undated piece with similar lettering needs its own context.
- Compare the full Christian Dior name, abbreviated Chr. Dior and added BOUTIQUE wording. A Grossé-only signature belongs to the maker’s own branding.
Marks & lettering
5 marks
1964
MADE IN GERMANY / CHRISTIAN DIOR / © / 1964
MADE IN GERMANY encircles the full Christian Dior name; 19 and 64 sit on either side of the copyright symbol.
stamped / cast-in plaque · gold-tone · Pforzheim, Germany
1973
Chr.Dior © / 73 / GERMANY
The 73 line and abbreviated Chr.Dior wording distinguish this oval hanging tag from the full-name 1964 plaque.
stamped / cast-in plaque · gold-tone · Germany
Undated
Christian / Dior / BOUTIQUE / ®
BOUTIQUE and the registered symbol distinguish this tag from the abbreviated dated German signatures.
stamped / cast-in plaque · gold-tone
Undated
CHRISTIAN DIOR / BY / KRAMER
BY KRAMER identifies the American licensee rather than the English Maer or German Grossé manufacture.
stamped / cast-in plaque · silver-tone · New York, United States
About Christian Dior jewelry
Christian Dior opened his couture house at 30 Avenue Montaigne in Paris in December 1946. His first collection followed in February 1947 and introduced the silhouette known as the New Look. Jewelry formed part of the complete outfit, alongside hats, shoes and other accessories. Licensed costume-jewelry production expanded from 1948.
Dior worked with several specialist makers. Kramer produced jewelry for the American market, while the London-based Mitchel Maer made Dior pieces from 1952 to 1956. Henkel & Grossé of Pforzheim entered a partnership with Dior in 1955. It became a major producer of plated-metal, crystal and other costume jewelry under the Dior name, while also retaining its own collections. Co-signatures identify these different manufacturing relationships.
Christian Dior died in 1957, but the fashion house continued. Many German pieces carry a year in the signature plaque, and later marks include abbreviated Chr. Dior wording, hanging tags and Christian Dior Boutique. In 1998 Victoire de Castellane was appointed to the newly created fine-jewelry department. Those precious-metal collections developed alongside the house’s longer costume-jewelry tradition.
Also known as: Dior · Chr. Dior · Christian Dior Boutique · Bijoux Christian Dior · Christian Dior couture house / Dior jewelry
Look-alikes & how to tell them apart
Grossé own-label jewelry →
Grossé made both Dior jewelry and its own collections. Look for Dior wording or a second Dior plaque in addition to any Grossé signature.
Kramer own-label jewelry
Kramer made jewelry under its own name. The Dior collaboration includes Dior in the co-signature; a Kramer-only mark does not identify that contract.