
Read the stamp
Italian gold hallmarks
Italian gold marks usually combine a metal-fineness statement with a separate maker identification. 750 means 750 parts gold per thousand, equivalent to 18 karat; 585 is 14 karat and 375 is 9 karat. These numbers describe the alloy. They do not identify a jewellery house, an Italian province or a year.
Key makers’ marks
13 marksAbout Italian gold hallmarks
The familiar registration punch has a five-pointed star, a company number and two province letters inside a long polygonal outline. The star format belongs to the system introduced by the 1968 legislation. Earlier Italian registration formats look different, so record the whole outline as well as its contents. AR identifies Arezzo province: UNOAERRE’s name derives from its historic registration 1 AR.
Italy’s jewellery industry includes large chain and wedding-ring manufacturers, specialist goldsmiths and named design houses. Arezzo, Vicenza and Valenza are important production centres; Bulgari’s history began in Rome, and Buccellati’s in Milan. A brand signature and a registered manufacturing number can appear on the same object, identifying different commercial roles.
On a chain, the useful marks are often on the clasp, end tab or small adjoining ring. On rings they commonly sit inside the shank. Read ITALY as origin wording, copy every registration digit and check both province letters. A worn star can resemble a scratch, while a partly hidden 750 can be mistaken for a workshop number. Compare the full punch group before looking up the business.
How to read the marks
Find both fineness and registration punches on the clasp, end tabs, ring interior or reverse.
Record 750, 585 or 375 as the gold grade, separately from other numbers.
For a starred punch, transcribe the star, every company digit and both province letters.
Compare the punch outline and star with the appropriate Italian marking period.
Read a brand name separately from the registered manufacturer’s number; preserve both identities.
Check the main object as well as replaceable clasp parts, and include nearby ITALY wording in the photograph.
Key makers
UNOAERRE
Arezzo, Tuscany, Italy · Founded 1926; historic registration 1 AR.
Gold jewellery, chains and wedding rings.
Bulgari / BVLGARI
Rome, Italy · First shop opened 1884; continuing.
Jewellery and silverwork, followed by luxury jewellery collections.
Damiani
Valenza, Piedmont, Italy · Founded 1924; continuing.
Gold and diamond jewellery.
Buccellati
Milan, Italy · Founded 1919; continuing.
Textured gold jewellery and silver objects.
Look-alikes & fakes
750 versus a registration number
750 expresses 18-karat gold. A separate number with province letters identifies a registered business; the two numbers have different jobs.
Italian silver and gold-plated silver
The star registration format also occurs on silver. Read the metal fineness as well: a registration or ITALY inscription alone does not establish gold.
Brev or brevetto
BREV refers to a patent or registered invention rather than a maker named Brev. Read the separate company and metal punches.
Copied luxury names and replaced clasps
A brand signature can be copied, and a marked clasp can be fitted to another chain. Compare the complete marks, construction and corresponding jewellery design.































